This is a Preprint and has not been peer reviewed. The published version of this Preprint is available: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2021.107798. This is version 1 of this Preprint.

Morphodynamic modelling of beach cusp formation: the role of wave forcing and sediment composition
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Abstract
A field of beach cusps formed during a field experiment at Nha Trang Beach, Vietnam, under accretive conditions. The measured data was used to set-up morphodynamic simulations in XBeach, which was able to simulate cusp formation from an initially long-shore uniform beach profile. Several types of simulations were run in order to observe the resulting variation in mean cusp dimensions (length, depth and height), swash flow patterns, and sediment sorting. Both time-constant (JONSWAP) and time-varying (measured) wave forcing conditions were superimposed on the measured tide. In the former, four wave parameters were varied (wave height, period, d... more
DOI
https://doi.org/10.31223/X5TS3X
Subjects
Physical Sciences and Mathematics
Keywords
Beach cusps, Onshore sediment transport, Pattern formation, Wave forcing, Sediment sorting, Onshore sediment transport, Pattern formation, Wave forcing, Sediment sorting
Dates
Published: 2020-10-29 10:27
Last Updated: 2020-10-29 17:27
License
CC BY Attribution 4.0 International
Additional Metadata
Conflict of interest statement:
None
Data Availability (Reason not available):
Data provided on request
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