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Morphodynamic modelling of beach cusp formation: the role of wave forcing and sediment composition

Morphodynamic modelling of beach cusp formation: the role of wave forcing and sediment composition

This is a Preprint and has not been peer reviewed. The published version of this Preprint is available: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.geomorph.2021.107798. This is version 1 of this Preprint.

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Authors

Christopher J Daly, France Floc'h, Luis Pedro Almeida, Rafael Almar, Marion Jaud

Abstract

A field of beach cusps formed during a field experiment at Nha Trang Beach, Vietnam, under accretive conditions. The measured data was used to set-up morphodynamic simulations in XBeach, which was able to simulate cusp formation from an initially long-shore uniform beach profile. Several types of simulations were run in order to observe the resulting variation in mean cusp dimensions (length, depth and height), swash flow patterns, and sediment sorting. Both time-constant (JONSWAP) and time-varying (measured) wave forcing conditions were superimposed on the measured tide. In the former, four wave parameters were varied (wave height, period, d...  more

DOI

https://doi.org/10.31223/X5TS3X

Subjects

Physical Sciences and Mathematics

Keywords

Beach cusps, Onshore sediment transport, Pattern formation, Wave forcing, Sediment sorting, Onshore sediment transport, Pattern formation, Wave forcing, Sediment sorting

Dates

Published: 2020-10-29 10:27

Last Updated: 2020-10-29 17:27

License

CC BY Attribution 4.0 International

Additional Metadata

Conflict of interest statement:
None

Data Availability (Reason not available):
Data provided on request