Sebastian Pitman , Giovanni Coco, Deirdre Hart, Jamie Shulmeister

Substantial volumes of sediment are moved on coarse grained beaches through the formation and destruction of beach cusps, yet the processes governing cusp behaviour remain poorly understood. Here, we combine continuous 2D LiDAR scan data with daily UAV topographic surveys and RGB imagery to provide detailed morphological measurements of beach cusps on a composite beach with the aim to investigate the role of sediment size and tidal stage on cusp behaviour. Rapid changes in cusp height and prominence were observed when storm-eroded gravels were readily transported over relatively impermeable sandy substratum, showing the high-order control that mixed matrix sediments have on this process. Post storm, gravels armoured the swash zone overlaying the sand and were rapidly reworked into horns, with the incipient bays simultaneously experiencing erosion. We provide some of the first field observations to show divergent behaviours occurring simultaneously along the beach as cusps adjust to the new dominant hydrodynamic regime, with some areas experiencing a shortening of cusp wavelength through new horn growth, while others contemporaneously experienced wavelength growth through the removal of intermediate horns. Cusp formation was generally more pronounced on the falling tide, but some evidence indicates horns can also be consolidated and grow in relief at some stages of individual rising tides. This research demonstrates how feedback between sediments, morphology and hydrodynamics are key to determining cusp form, with these insights only made possible through the novel combination of LiDAR, UAV, and camera methods to provide sufficient temporal and spatial resolution to resolve key processes.